Question:

For true NO MAINTENANCE batteries look at our home page

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.  No maintenance batteries – are either type (1) or type (2) and have either a. lots of water (consumed on charging) or b. a hydrogen recombiner capable of recombining the hydrogen and oxygen generated during the charge/discharge cycle.  Only the very best have b.  Most maintenance batteries are type 1.a. and fail for want of water in a

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3.  No maintenance batteries – are either type (1) or type (2) and have either a. lots of water (consumed on charging) or b. a hydrogen recombiner capable of recombining the hydrogen and oxygen generated during the charge/discharge cycle.  Only the very best have b.  Most maintenance batteries are type 1.a. and fail for want of water in a marine deap cycle application.

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The “hydrogen recombiner” relies on a catalyst in the vent caps to encourage the hydrogen and oxygen gases to recombine back into water, which then drips back into the cell.

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This works great, as long as the volume of gases is very low.  A good assumption for the typical car battery, which doesn’t get a heavy charge current.  This is *not* a good assumption for a deep cycle battery.   For a deep cycle application, the charge rates will often generate more gas than the vent cap recombiners can handle.  The result is that the excess gas escapes, and the cell loses water.  If the caps are made non-removable,

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you now have a significant problem.   If they made the catalyst recombiners in an easy to remove cap, then it would do no harm and at least would reduce the frequency at which you had to add water.  But on many batteries, they make the cap impossible to remove without destroying it.   Another “bottom line” is that many batteries that are advertised as being “deep cycle” are pretty poor deep cycle batteries.  If you really intend to deep cycle the battery, get one that was really made for a deep cycle application.  The T-105 series, often referred to as Golf Cart batteries, are made with the expectation of being deep cycled.   Rod McInnis

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Why would anyone flame you? I would read up on Marine Deep cycle batteries. I use to think that a battery, was a battery, was a battery, untill, I found out the major differences. Do youself a favor and check up on it. You’ll be surprised!

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I’ll probably get flames, but unless it’s a gel-cell, or a deep-cycle battery. The difference is auto batteries have big lead terminal lugs, or those dumb GM screw-hole lugs, and boat batteries have threaded posts with wing nuts

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Anybody had experience using Deka deep cycle batteries? Thanks

Larry: I just bought 4 Deka 31 series batteries to replace 4 Exides that only lasted for two years. Two friends of mine also bought Exides at the same time and all of us have had the same problem with Exides. All three of us use the batteries with Freedom 25 inverters. The reason I chose Exide over Deka was price but I found Deka at the Battery Store on Kent Island for about the same price. They are very well thought of and are the same battery that West sells under their name and the same as  Prevailer. Frank

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Anybody had experience using Deka deep cycle batteries? Thanks

My Pearson 36, Shearwater, was delivered with two series 24 flooded cells by Surrett.  These are supposed to be the best of the conventional deap cycle batteries.  Their early failure led me to do some research: 1.  Conventional “car” batteries have a large surface area per unit of weight or size – that is, lots of current for a short time.  Mass translates into current times time (amp hours), surface area translates into instant discharge rate (cold cranking amps).  The Surretts failed early because they were undersize for my load – refrigeration, lots of lights, radios and such. 2.  Deap Cycles – such as the Surretts I had claimed to be – had more massive plates per unit of surface area – capable of very deap discharge without damage – but unable to sustain a heavy discharge rate for starting a cold engine many times.  A better choice, but not perfect. 3.  No maintenance batteries – are either type (1) or type (2) and have either a. lots of water (consumed on charging) or b. a hydrogen recombiner capable of recombining the hydrogen and oxygen generated during the charge/discharge cycle.  Only the very best have b.  Most maintenance batteries are type 1.a. and fail for want of water in a marine deap cycle application. 4.  Gell Cells are essentially type 2.b batteries – maintenance free deap cycle.  My cells are a size 8D (hugh truck) and series 27 (very big car/small truck) and have the following characteristics:   a.  Absolutely no maintenance – hydrogen is recombined infinitely if the charging voltage is kept at 14 volts or less (limits the rate of hydrogen production)   b.  Both deap cycle and high discharge rate.  Because of the massive size, my primary battery has a 1200 amp cold cranking rating (compare that to your car) and a 200++ amp hour storage capacity.  It is sufficient to run the Shearwater – refirgeration and all – for 48 hours with an ample starting reserve – and it is 5 years old.   c.  Extended life – my reserve size 27 was purchased in 1988 and is used only to test start the diesel once a month – after all, it is a reserve battery.  The voltage is monitored and has never dropped below 12.8 volts.  The batter is NEVER CHARGED underway – but is trickle charged in a marine cycle charger that claims to be OK for extended use. My 8D was purchased 3 years ago to replace an aging 8D Interstate that was coming up on its 4th birthday and getting old for conventional flooded cell.   d.  The best part – gel cells are intrinicly safe – even a battery rupture leaves no acid to float around the boat.  The gel cells are securely placed in the bildge, kept dry, and forgotten.  Never checked except for their yearly physical examination, serve as limited balast, and never corrode the connections because they produce no acid discharge unless the charging voltage goes above 14 volts and damages the recombiner.   e.  The bad news – they are expensive – twice or more times the best of the conventional or deap cycle flooded cells – but, you pay your money and make your choice.  Starting, absense of maintenance, safety in a knockdown, absense of battery box, and superior cranking characteristics (my Yanmar cranks like a small outboard with a very big battery – the lights don’t even flicker). So – there is the accumulated knowledge on batteries.  BTW, I have two different brands of gel cells – seems to be no difference.

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I hate to seem ignorant abut the subject, but could someone tell me the difference between a regular car battery and a marine battery

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Depending on quality, application, and make of battery, the difference could be very little, or a lot. There is no need for an automotive battery to be anything but a starting battery.  As a general rule, a good quality marine battery tends to be more of a deep cycle type of battery, but this is not always the case. If the battery is being used primarily to start the engine, and is seldom used to power any accessories when the engine is not running, then a starting battery can be used. In the “economy” grade starting batteries, in the group 24 and 27 sizes it is often only that the marine battery has a carrying strap and instead of regular automotive terminals it has the marine type of combination terminal, with an offset automotive type post, and an extra stud type connector either on top of or beside the automotive post. The higher grade marine starting batteries will usually tend towards thicker, heavier plates, and are sometimes classified as a “start/cycle” battery, more or less mid way between a deep cycle and a starting battery. The better batteries also tend to use better quality seperators etc., and are usually heavier in weight. If the batteries are regularly being used to power accessories or lights when the engine is not running, then a deep cycle battery should be used. The deep cycle batteries use thicker and denser plates than the starting batteries, and are usually heavier than equivalent starting batteries.  However, “deep cycle” is a relative term, sort of like deep water. How deep is deep? A deep cycle battery that is built by a company specializing in economy priced starting batteries might actually be less of a deep cycle battery than a “start/cycle” battery produced by a company specializing in top quality deep cycle batteries. A good quality deep cycle battery in conventional construction will be very heavy, and there can be a dramatic difference in weight between an economy grade group 27 starting battery and a premium grade group 27 deep cycle battery. Of course gel batteries and absorbant glass mat (A.G.M.) batteries are now available, but they are divided into starting and deep cycle types as well. In many cases an automotive battery can be used instead of a marine type with out any hazards or problems, just keep in mind that they are starting batteries and should not be deep cycled.  Usually, though, there is very little difference in price between a low grade automotive or marine starting battery.

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I hate to seem ignorant abut the subject, but could someone tell me the difference between a regular car battery and a marine battery                              Thanks BJ

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Anybody had experience using Deka deep cycle batteries? Thanks

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Here is some information from

rv solar panel battery charger

The basic job of a battery is to start an engine; it must          crank, or rotate the crankshaft while at the same time          maintain sufficient voltage to activate the ignition system          until the engine fires and maintains rotation. This          requirement involves a high discharge rate in amperes for          a short period of time.          Since it is more difficult for a battery to deliver power          when it is cold, and since the engine requires more          power to turn over when it is cold, the Cold Cranking          rating is defined as:          The number of amperes a lead-acid battery at 0 degrees          F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and          maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt          battery).          In other words, CCA/cold cranking amps determine how          much power you have to start your car on cold winter          mornings.  What is a CA/Cranking Amp?          Cranking amps are the numbers of amperes a lead-acid          battery at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) can deliver for 30          seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts          for a 12 volt battery).          In other words, CA/cranking amps determine how much          power you have to start your car in most climates.  What is Reserve Capacity?          Reserve capacity is the time in minutes that a new, fully          charged battery will deliver 25 amperes at 80 degrees F          and maintain a terminal voltage equal to, or greater than,          1.75 volts per cell. This rating represents the time the          battery will continue to operate essential accessories if          the alternator or generator of a vehicle fails.          Put another way, reserve capacity is a battery’s ability          to sustain a minimum vehicle electrical load in the event          of a charging system failure. Under the worst conditions          (winter driving at night), this minimum could require          current for ignition, low beam head lamps, windshield          wipers, and defroster while driving at low speeds. — Del Cecchi

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Here is some information from

rv solar panel battery charger

<snipped          Since it is more difficult for a battery to deliver power          when it is cold, and since the engine requires more          power to turn over when it is cold, the Cold Cranking          rating is defined as:          The number of amperes a lead-acid battery at 0 degrees          F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and          maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt          battery).          In other words, CCA/cold cranking amps determine how          much power you have to start your car on cold winter          mornings.

<snipped Del Cecchi

MCA Marine cranking amps are the same thing based at 32 degrees F.  As Boats are not assumed to be started and run when the water turns to a solid state. Regards, Bill — Opinions expressed are mine not necessarily my employers. All other standard disclaimers apply! Remove nospam. To email reply.

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We have a 1985, 28′ Bayliner with a single Volvo 350.  In it’s winter maintenance check my marina found that one of my three batteries was worn out.  I decided to replace it myself but I am not sure what to purchase.   Is it wise to get the most powerful battery just to be on the safe side?   And, what is the diferrence between a regular battery and a gel battery —  and which do I need?  Thanks.

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We have a 1985, 28′ Bayliner with a single Volvo 350.  In it’s winter maintenance check my marina found that one of my three batteries was worn out.  I decided to replace it myself but I am not sure what to purchase.   Is it wise to get the most powerful battery just to be on the safe side?   And, what is the diferrence between a regular battery and a gel battery — and which do I need?  Thanks.

I would recommend getting the largest battery that will fit the battery box, which will most likely be a series 24 or 27.     The next question is do you want a deep cycle or cranking battery. If you have three batteries, you should be using one for starting the engine, and the other two for running cabin lights.

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If the bad battery was the one you use for starting the engine, get a cranking battery. Otherwise, get a deep cycle.   I highly recommend getting a battery that has caps that can be removed.  The so called “maintenance free” batteries will still lose water under heavy charging and deep cycles.  If you can’t replace the water, you will find that the battery life will be very short.   A gel battery has several advantages, but you have to treat them right.  They have no liquid in them, so they can’t spill.  They have no maintanence, as you never have to add water.  However, they can be damaged by overcharging, so if you don’t have a battery charger and alternator voltage regulator that is adjusted for the lower charge voltage, then I would not recommend a gel.   Where a gel excells is when you live day to day based on a limited amount of charge.  A gel battery is more efficient at accepting a charge, and less lossy when delivering power.  This is real good if you are crossing an ocean and trying to live off what you can get out of a solar panel.  Not so important if you charge the battery up at the dock overnight.   A gel battery, properly treated, will generally last longer than a typical flooded cell battery.  This can help offset the initial higher cost.

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Where a gel excells is when you live day to day based on a limited amount of charge.  A gel battery is more efficient at accepting a charge, and less lossy when delivering power.  This is real good if you are crossing an ocean and trying to live off what you can get out of a solar panel.  Not so important if you charge the battery up at the dock overnight.

Good info.  Also important is that the gel battery is much, much better at surviving physical impact, where the wet cell battery will short two or more plates.  This is important for those of use who like rough water offshore boating – going through several batteries a season is a drag! # Manufacturing Executive Offices                              Dan Davis # # Advanced Manufacturing Technology Development           (313) 84-51696 # #                                                                        # # On behalf of Ford Motor Co. (stockholders & management) I say: ”    .” #

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:The other night, on the Discovery Channel, on one of the new ‘technology’ :shows, Beyond 2000, perhaps, they were talking about a “new” implementation :in Vancouver of a different battery technology…. : :Something about hydrogen/oxygen separated by some kind of new membrane, :making these batteries suddenly cost-effective. Not in production yet, but :the technology itself sounded interesting. : :Anybody else familiar with this? Sounds like a fuel cell.  The 02 and H2 are combined to produce electric and water as a by product.  Around for many years, but maybe there is a breakthrough making it useful for somebody other than NASA.

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rv solar panel battery charger

The other night, on the Discovery Channel, on one of the new ‘technology’ :shows, Beyond 2000, perhaps, they were talking about a “new” implementation :in Vancouver of a different battery technology…. : :Something about hydrogen/oxygen separated by some kind of new membrane, :making these batteries suddenly cost-effective. Not in production yet, but :the technology itself sounded interesting. : :Anybody else familiar with this? Sounds like a fuel cell.  The 02 and H2 are combined to produce electric and water as a by product.  Around for many years, but maybe there is a breakthrough making it useful for somebody other than NASA. — george

This is a from a company called Ballard Power Systems in North Vancouver, B.C. Canada They are using the power cells on Public Transit Buses.  I don’t think it is set up for small systems yet.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The other night, on the Discovery Channel, on one of the new ‘technology’ shows, Beyond 2000, perhaps, they were talking about a “new” implementation in Vancouver of a different battery technology…. Something about hydrogen/oxygen separated by some kind of new membrane, making these batteries suddenly cost-effective. Not in production yet, but the technology itself sounded interesting. Anybody else familiar with this? Thanks, Geoff

No new technology here, unless it was a 40 year old show.  The hydrogen/oxygen battery is commonly referred to as a “fuel Cell”, and they were used extensively on the Apollo projects.  Great thing on a space vehicle:  Uses the same fuel as the rocket motor, and the byproduct was the water that the astronauts drank.   It does have a few drawbacks, however.  A tear in the membrane and you end up with a rather violent reaction.  We almost lost Apollo 13 because of that.   Another aspect is that keeping liquid oxygen and liquid hydrogen around is not the easiest thing to do..         Rod McInnis

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amount of charge.  A gel battery is more efficient at accepting a charge, and less lossy when delivering power.  This is real good if you are crossing an ocean and trying to live off what you can get out of a solar panel.  Not so important if you charge the battery up at the dock overnight. Good info.  Also important is that the gel battery is much, much better at surviving physical impact, where the wet cell battery will short two or more plates.  This is important for those of use who like rough water offshore boating – going through several batteries a season is a drag! # Manufacturing Executive Offices                              Dan Davis # # Advanced Manufacturing Technology Development           (313) 84-51696 # #                                                                        # # On behalf of Ford Motor Co. (stockholders & management) I say: ”    .” #

The other night, on the Discovery Channel, on one of the new ‘technology’ shows, Beyond 2000, perhaps, they were talking about a “new” implementation in Vancouver of a different battery technology…. Something about hydrogen/oxygen separated by some kind of new membrane, making these batteries suddenly cost-effective. Not in production yet, but the technology itself sounded interesting. Anybody else familiar with this? Thanks,

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:  Where a gel excells is when you live day to day based on a limited : amount of charge.  A gel battery is more efficient at accepting a : charge, and less lossy when delivering power.  This is real good if you : are crossing an ocean and trying to live off what you can get out of a : solar panel.  Not so important if you charge the battery up at the dock : overnight. : Good info.  Also important is that the gel battery is much, much better at : surviving physical impact, where the wet cell battery will short two or more : plates.  This is important for those of use who like rough water : offshore boating – going through several batteries a season is a drag! You may add the fact the Prevailer Gels and Concorde Lifeline Series(absorbed glass matt technology) can be submerged to 50 feet with no damage.  No water can enter the battery to short it out, and no chlorine gas is produced from a reaction of seawater with the inside of a battery.  Fortunately, Prevailers and Concorde’s are military spec’ed and can be mounted in any position.  It is interesting to note that Hugo Vihlen used Prevailers when he sailed his 5 foot, 4 inch boat across the Atlantic to England.  Add to that, many of the Whitbread boats and the American Cups vessels.   Dan, as far as your system goes, make sure any batteries you have that are connected in parallel or series, direct or through a battery selector switch, are of the same age, type, condition, and size.  Dissimilar batteries have dissimilar resistances and will allow for one(some) to overcharge and one(some) to become undercharged.  Whatever battery you buy, get a good one and purchase it from a dealer who will back you up if you have any questions or problems.  Let the battery work for you, not the other way around.  A gentleman never sails to weather or leaves port on a Friday.

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Regards, Bob Franks Innovative Multi-Services, Inc. (305)583-2779 Distrubutor of Quality Marine Products

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Whatever batteries are sold at BoatUS. Seem to last plenty long, free replacement the first year.  Gotta love 1000 AMPs worth of starting power!! — Lee www.raising-cain.com

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi everybody, Anybody have a recommendation on the best marine batteries available?  I have a 7.4L engine that I need to crank, and would like to run just off one battery so I always have a spare for starting… Your help is appreciated. Chris

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Hi everybody, Anybody have a recommendation on the best marine batteries available?  I have a 7.4L engine that I need to crank, and would like to run just off one battery so I always have a spare for starting…

If it is just for starting purposes then you don’t need anything special, i.e., you don’t need or especially want a deep cycle battery. I would get a “group 27″ battery, then choose the one with the highest CCA (cold cranking amps) and then the one with the longest warrantee.   Rod

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Hi everybody, Anybody have a recommendation on the best marine batteries available?  I have a 7.4L engine that I need to crank, and would like to run just off one battery so I always have a spare for starting… Your help is appreciated.

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I’ve found that a group 24 or group 27 Die Hard works well. I’m assuming you’re already set up for two batteries.  If not, you’ll need to think about a combiner for charging and a one/two/both/off switch. Charlie M/V Wavelength

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, Anybody have a recommendation on the best marine batteries available?  I have a 7.4L engine that I need to crank, and would like to run just off one battery so I always have a spare for starting… Your help is appreciated.

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